Rediscovering Spelt: My Journey with an Ancient Grain

Written By Emily Buckman

Lately, I’ve been baking a lot with spelt. It started as an experiment, but the more I work with it, the more fascinated I’ve become; not just with how it bakes, but with the story it carries.

I first reached for spelt out of curiosity. I’d read that it was one of the oldest cultivated grains, a relative of modern wheat with roots stretching back thousands of years. There’s something grounding about working with an ingredient that connects me to such a long lineage of bakers and farmers. People who were feeding their communities long before industrial flour or standardized recipes existed. I think part of me wanted to feel closer to that kind of simplicity, to see what lessons an ancient grain might hold for a modern baker like me.

The first time I laminated dough with spelt flour, I expected it to behave like wheat. It didn’t. The gluten was softer, more tender, and the dough wanted to relax at every turn. It didn’t fight back the way a strong bread flour would; instead, it asked me to slow down, to pay attention. The layers weren’t as tight or regimented as a classic French croissant, and at first, I thought I had “done something wrong.” But when I pulled them from the oven, what I found was different… but beautiful.

The croissants were more open, more feathery, almost flake-on-flake instead of honeycomb pockets. They stayed crisp longer, and the flavor was deeper: nutty, sweet, almost malty, like toasted grain and honey. That was the moment I realized spelt wasn’t just a substitute for wheat. It had its own voice.

Working with spelt has become a kind of teacher for me. It’s reminded me that not everything has to conform to expectation to be worthy. Sometimes, in trying to force dough (or ourselves) into a familiar shape, we miss the beauty of what’s trying to emerge naturally. Spelt’s softness, its willingness to unfold rather than resist, has changed the way I approach lamination, and honestly, the way I approach baking as a whole.

Now, every time I mix a dough with spelt, I feel like I’m in conversation with something older and wiser than myself. It asks me to listen, to adapt, and to celebrate what makes it unique rather than trying to make it behave like something else. And that lesson, I think, extends far beyond the kitchen.


A Grain with History

Spelt (Triticum spelta) is one of humanity’s oldest cultivated grains, dating back over 8,000 years. It was a staple in Bronze Age Europe and especially beloved in medieval Germany, where it was known as dinkel. Monks praised it for being nourishing and easy to digest.

But as farming industrialized, spelt’s protective husk made it too labor intensive compared to modern wheat. Spelt's unique characteristic, its tightly bound, protective husk that had once been an advantage, became a disadvantage. This husk, while safeguarding the grain from pests and environmental damage, also made the milling process more labor-intensive and time-consuming compared to modern wheat varieties that were being developed for easier processing. As a result, spelt gradually receded from mainstream cultivation and consumption, overshadowed by the efficiency-driven demands of the burgeoning industrial food system.

For many decades, spelt remained largely forgotten, relegated to the fringes of the agricultural landscape. Yet, in recent years, a renewed interest in traditional grains has emerged, driven by a growing desire among bakers and eaters alike for food that offers more than just sustenance. This resurgence is fueled by a search for richer, more complex flavors that mass-produced grains often lack, a demand for greater nutritional value, and a longing for a deeper connection to the origins and processes of what we consume. Spelt, with its ancient heritage, distinctive nutty taste, and impressive nutritional profile, has once again captured the attention of those of us seeking to rediscover the bounty of forgotten grains and to foster a more mindful relationship with our food.

The Science Behind the Dough

Working with spelt has truly been a journey of discovery, teaching me the invaluable lessons of patience and softness in the kitchen. Unlike the robust, unyielding gluten found in modern bread wheat, spelt's gluten is a delicate creature. It simply doesn't respond well to being pushed too hard or manipulated aggressively. Over-mixing it, for example, quickly leads to a torn, unmanageable dough, while stretching it too far results in frustrating resistance and a loss of its inherent elasticity.

However, when approached with a gentle hand and a mindful presence, spelt generously rewards the baker. The result is a tender crumb, a texture that melts in the mouth, and a depth of flavor that transcends the ordinary. It's a taste that feels ancient, a gift from another time, connecting us to a rich culinary heritage.

I've observed the fascinating science in action within spelt dough. Its unique proteins form a gluten network, but one that is inherently more water-soluble and less rigid than that of modern wheat. This characteristic explains why spelt dough tends to spread more readily and why the shaping process can sometimes feel a little unpredictable, demanding a different kind of finesse. 

Yet, these very qualities are precisely what contribute to the exceptional character of spelt breads and pastries. They possess an earthy sweetness that is both subtle and profound, and a complex flavor profile that is truly unparalleled, often featuring nutty, almost malty undertones. It’s this delicate balance – the challenge of mastering its unique behavior in the kitchen and the rich reward of its distinctive taste and texture – that makes working with spelt such a deeply satisfying experience, transforming it from a mere ingredient into a true culinary adventure. The satisfaction comes not just from the final product, but from the journey of understanding and coaxing the best out of this ancient grain.

Why I Keep Coming Back

For me, spelt has become more than just another flour in my pantry. It’s a reminder that baking isn’t about control, it’s about listening. Every time I roll out spelt dough, I feel like I’m in conversation with a grain that’s been with us for thousands of years.

When I bake with spelt, I’m not just making bread or croissants. I’m learning to embrace difference, to celebrate imperfection, and to honor a grain that refuses to be tamed into sameness.

Sources & Further Reading

If you love geeking out about grains as much as I do, here are some of the sources I explored while diving into spelt’s history and science. They range from archaeology papers to baking science studies; perfect if you want to see just how deep this rabbit hole goes!

Emily Buckman
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